postcard 2: mississippi

10 Dec 2020 - Graham

previously: postcard 1: st. augustine

It’s weirdly comforting to know that the potholes haven’t gotten any smaller In Jackson.

a large pothole

Driving into Mississippi felt at once like going home and also like invading hostile territory. Heading up Route 49 from Mobile, I noticed that I was slightly fearful. What if I was mistaken for an outside agitator? What could and has happened on these dark Mississippi roads? But even with my long hair and prius, my skin protects me here.

I wasn’t able to see everyone I wanted to see, so I’m very sorry if I missed you. I was glad to enjoy a distant coffee with Ryder T. and a rain-shortened bike ride with Josh P.

I was struck, this visit, by how rich the rich parts of Jackson are. I remember it as a poor place, which it is, but there’s also a pseudo-castle next-door to a legit Frank Lloyd Wright. The food, however, was exactly as luxurious as I remember–the BBQ fries (aka Mississippi Poutine) and chicken biscuit were especially decadent.

Driving away, I felt sad and relieved. Sad that the school gardens I built are gone, sad to have decided that Jackson would not be my forever home, and sad that I am not actually an outside agitator. And also relieved, because the burden of history and racism and inequality weigh so heavily there. Then again, I can’t really leave Jackson behind. As Malcolm X once said, “America is Mississippi.”

If you’d like to join the trip in a small way: add a few songs to this collaborative spotify playlist or send me your own road-trip playlist. Thanks to Bruce L. for already doing so.

Recommended reading: Kiese Laymon’s Heavy, Taylor Branch’s trilogy

next post: postcard 3: west texas